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186 Miles Project

Christmas Morning Walk on Level 34

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Christmas Morning Walk on Level 34

December 25, 2017

Level 34 on the C&O Canal, which starts at McMahon’s Mill (mile 88.10) and ends at Opequon (pronounced “Opekon”) Junction Hiker/Biker (mile 90.94), was Arthur’s favorite place on the Canal. It is on the Big Slackwater area of the Park above Dam #4 where the proximity of limestone bluffs and cliffs made it easier for the canal builders to build a dam to make the water deep enough to move the canal boats in the river and negate the work of carving the canal through solid rock. This has made for some beautiful and interesting terrain. There are the aforementioned cliffs, caves, spectacular views, interesting plants, and lots of wildlife. This area is also prone to flooding and requires much maintenance, especially in the spring.

I am a volunteer level Walker for the C&O Canal Association and Level 34 is one of my levels. This means that I walk the level periodically and monitor conditions, pick up trash, and generally be helpful. Arthur and I spent fair bit of time on this part of the Canal and I find it a privilege to help take care of this part of this wonderful Park. It has become a tradition with me to walk this level on Christmas Day and have a cup of Arthur’s favorite tea on Arthur’s Rock, a place where he and I would often sit and have lunch when we were out.

TC, December, 2017

Dawn light just showing above the horizon on the Potomac River.
Pre-dawn start, view of the Potomac River from McMahon’s Mill.
NPS mile marker 88
Mile marker 88 at the start of Level 34.
Photograph of the river and towpath with more light just before dawn.
Dawn on the Potomac.
Lightening sky over the Potomac River at dawn
More dawn on the Potomac.
Photograph of West Virginia.
View of the limestone bluffs on the West Virginia side of the Potomac River.
Limestone cliffs and towpath.
Limestone cliffs on level 34. Most of the cliffs were cut away by hand and black powder blasting to make a space for the towpath mules.
View of Lock 41 looking east.
Lock 41, this lock was an inlet/outlet lock to let canal boats in and out of the river and back into the canal proper when traveling in this section of the waterway.
Towpath, trees, and lock 42.
Lift Lock 42, locks allowed canal boats to rise and lower when the river went uphill or down keeping the water in the canal level.
A stone built arched culvert.
Culvert 118 1/2, culverts allowed streams (and roads in some cases) to pass under the canal and towpath on their way to the Potomac River
Warning sign.
The first mile of Level 34 is subject to flooding and the occasional rock fall. During hazardous conditions this section can be closed by gates to prevent accidents.
Orange, black and white warning sign.
Falling Rock warning sign
Concrete mile marker post.
Mile marker 89 with the Potomac in the background.
Campsite sign.
Opequon Junction Hiker/Biker campsite. Usually hiker/bikers are 4 to 5 miles apart but some are a little farther. Every hiker/biker has level spots for a few tents, a picnic table, steel fire ring, a porta-john, and water. The water is shut down late in the fall and turned back on the early spring.
veiw of the towpath in sunlight.
Opequon Junction (this is where Opequon Creek enters the Potomac on the West Virginia side) is the turn around point when walking this level. This photo is a typical stretch of towpath in this area in this case heading downstream back to McMahon’s Mill.
A leaning mile marker post.
Mile marker 90.
Fallen tree.
The emerald ash borer has killed almost all of the ash trees along the C&O Canal. Park maintenance staff has and still is making a valiant effort to cut them down a remove them but there are so many ashes in some areas it is almost impossible to keep up with this effort. When you are out on the Canal be mindful of this hazard
Cliffs and river.
Limestone cliffs on Level 34, you can see the difficulty of trying to build a canal in this terrain.
Rock Shelf
The flat shelf of rock in the middle of this photo is what I call Arthur’s Rock. This is where he and I would often take a break or eat our lunch, or just watch the day go by for awhile.
Cave with trees.
Howell’s Cave Grotto. Just before you get to Arthur’s Rock is this beautiful little limestone grotto with two entrances to Howell’s Cave. This spot was a big attraction for Arthur, me too.
Stone and red wood mill.
McMahon’s Mill, the beginning and end of Level 34.
tea for Arthur
Christmas morning tea on Arthur’s Rock, the Irish pewter cup on the left was one that Arthur really liked. The tea is Celestial Seasonings Tension Tamer, his favorite, that he called “Dragon Tea” because of the dragon illustration on the box, not sure if he liked the tea all that much be he had a very strong appreciation of dragons.
This is the second Christmas since Arthur left us and the second time I have had tea here early on Christmas morning and I will continue to do so as long as I am able. It is a good way to remember the happy times we spent together in this wonderful place.
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